Key Takeaways
| What’s Usually Missing | Cost Impact | How to Spot It |
|---|---|---|
| Quality underlay | $1–$3/sq ft | Quote lists “underlay included” with no specs |
| Furniture moving | $100–$400 | Quote says “customer prepares room” |
| Subfloor prep | $200–$800 | Quote assumes “subfloor in good condition” |
| Old carpet disposal | $50–$200 | Quote says “removal extra” or omits it |
| Transition strips | $50–$150 | Not itemized; installer charges on-site |
| Weekend/after-hours | +15–30% | Quote is for weekday installation only |
| Seam placement | No cost, but affects quality | Cheap installers place seams in high-traffic areas |
The Missing Underlay
The biggest cost difference between cheap and quality quotes is underlay. Budget quotes include thin, low-density foam underlay. Quality quotes include thick, high-density underlay or rubber underlay.
Thin underlay costs $0.50–$1.00 per square foot. It compresses within a year. Your carpet feels flat. High-traffic areas wear through faster. If you have neighbors below you, they hear every footstep.
Thick underlay costs $1.50–$3.00 per square foot. It lasts 10–15 years. The carpet feels plush. Noise transmission drops. The carpet warranty remains valid because the underlay meets manufacturer specs.
A cheap quote for a 500-square-foot room might say “underlay included” without specifying type, thickness, or density. That’s standard foam. A quality quote itemizes the underlay: “8mm rebond foam, 6lb density” or “10mm rubber underlay.” The line-item cost is higher, but you know what you’re getting.
Ask every installer to specify underlay type in writing. If they refuse or say “we use standard underlay,” they’re cutting costs. Standard underlay is the cheapest option available. It’s not bad, but it’s not good either. You get what you pay for.
For installations that include proper underlay selection, see carpet installation services.
Furniture Moving and Room Prep
Some installers include furniture moving. Others don’t. The ones who don’t charge 20–30% less upfront, but you pay for furniture moving separately—or you do it yourself.
Furniture moving costs $100–$400 depending on room size and furniture quantity. If you have a bedroom with a bed, dresser, and nightstands, expect $100–$150. If you have a living room with a sectional sofa, entertainment center, and bookshelves, expect $300–$400.
Budget quotes often state “customer prepares room” or “empty room required.” That means you move the furniture or hire movers. If you can’t move the furniture yourself, you’ll pay a moving company $150–$300 for a few hours of work. The “cheap” quote isn’t cheap anymore.
Quality installers include furniture moving in their quote. They move furniture to another room, install the carpet, then move the furniture back. The cost is baked into the labor rate. You don’t see a separate line item, but you’re paying for it.
Ask explicitly: “Does the quote include furniture moving?” If the answer is no, get a separate quote for furniture moving. Add that to the installation cost. Now you can compare apples to apples.
If you’re installing stair carpet, furniture moving isn’t usually an issue. Stairs don’t have furniture. But hallways and bedrooms do. Factor moving costs into your budget.
Subfloor Preparation and Repairs
Cheap quotes assume your subfloor is perfect. It’s not. Most subfloors need some level of prep work.
Common subfloor issues include:
- Uneven boards: Wood subfloors warp over time. The installer must sand or plane high spots.
- Protruding nails: Old carpet was secured with nails or staples. The installer must remove them or hammer them flat.
- Cracks in concrete: Concrete subfloors develop cracks. The installer must fill them to prevent the carpet from sagging into the cracks.
- Moisture damage: Water leaks or humidity damage the subfloor. Damaged sections must be replaced.
Subfloor prep costs $200–$800 depending on severity. Minor prep—pulling staples, hammering nails—is often included in quality quotes. Major prep—replacing damaged boards, leveling concrete—is always extra.
Budget installers skip prep work unless you pay extra. They’ll install carpet over an uneven subfloor. The carpet reflects the unevenness. You feel bumps and dips underfoot. Within a year, the carpet wears unevenly. High spots wear faster. Low spots develop wrinkles.
Quality installers inspect the subfloor before quoting. They note issues and include prep costs in the quote. If they find unexpected damage on installation day, they’ll stop and give you a revised quote. You decide whether to proceed.
Ask the installer: “Is subfloor prep included?” If they say “we’ll assess on installation day,” that’s code for “we’ll charge you extra if there’s a problem.” Get a firm answer upfront.
For projects that include subfloor assessment and repair, see carpet repair services.
Old Carpet Removal and Disposal
Removing old carpet takes time. Disposing of it costs money. Some installers include removal in their quote. Others charge extra.
Removal costs $50–$150 for a single room, $200–$500 for a whole home. Disposal adds another $50–$150 depending on local dump fees. If the installer hauls the old carpet away, they’re paying those fees.
Cheap quotes often say “removal available for additional fee” or omit removal entirely. You’re responsible for ripping out the old carpet and hauling it to the dump. If you don’t own a truck, you’ll rent one or hire a junk removal service. That costs $100–$200.
Quality quotes include removal and disposal as a line item. The installer rips out the old carpet, rolls it up, and takes it away. You never see it again. The cost is transparent.
Ask: “Does the quote include old carpet removal and disposal?” If the answer is no, add $150–$300 to the quote for removal costs. Now compare the total to other quotes.
Some installers will lower the price if you remove the old carpet yourself. That saves them 1–2 hours of labor. If you’re handy and have time, DIY removal can save $100–$200. But it’s dirty, heavy work. Most people prefer to pay for removal.
For full-service installations that handle removal, see carpet replacement services.
Transition Strips and Finishing Details
Transition strips sit at doorways and edges where carpet meets other flooring. They cover the gap between carpet and tile, hardwood, or vinyl. Some quotes include them. Others don’t.
Transition strips cost $10–$30 each. A typical home needs 3–6 strips. That’s $30–$180 total. Budget quotes omit transition strips or list them as “available on-site.” The installer shows up, mentions you need three strips, and charges you $90 cash.
Quality quotes itemize transition strips. You see the cost before installation day. No surprises.
Other finishing details cheap quotes skip:
- Baseboards: If the installer damages a baseboard during installation, who pays to replace it? Quality installers carry liability insurance. Budget installers may not.
- Edge tucking: Carpet edges should be tucked under baseboards for a clean look. Some installers skip this step to save time.
- Threshold height matching: The carpet should sit flush with the threshold. If it’s too high or too low, the transition strip looks awkward. Quality installers adjust the underlay thickness to match the threshold height.
These details seem minor, but they affect the final appearance. A cheap installation with visible seams, uneven edges, and mismatched transitions looks cheap. A quality installation looks seamless.
Seam Placement and Workmanship
Seams are unavoidable. Carpet comes in 12-foot or 15-foot widths. If your room is wider, the installer must seam two pieces together. Where they place the seam matters.
Quality installers place seams in low-traffic areas—against walls, under furniture, or perpendicular to windows. Light doesn’t highlight seams when they’re perpendicular to the light source. Seams in low-traffic areas experience less stress and last longer.
Budget installers place seams wherever it’s easiest. They don’t care if the seam runs down the center of a hallway or across the main walkway in a living room. That seam will be visible and will wear faster. Within 2–3 years, the seam separates or shows a dirt line.
Seam placement doesn’t affect the quoted price directly, but it affects long-term satisfaction. A poorly placed seam is a permanent eyesore. You’ll notice it every day.
Ask the installer: “Where will you place seams?” A quality installer will walk the room with you and point out seam locations. A budget installer will say “we’ll figure it out on installation day.” That’s a red flag.
Installation Timeline and Convenience
Cheap quotes assume weekday installation during business hours. Weekend installation, evening installation, or rush jobs cost extra.
Here’s the breakdown:
| Timing | Surcharge |
|---|---|
| Weekday, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. | Standard rate |
| Weekend | +15–25% |
| Evening (after 5 p.m.) | +10–20% |
| Rush job (under 2 weeks’ notice) | +$100–$300 |
If you work full-time and need weekend installation, the cheap quote no longer applies. You’re paying the weekend surcharge. The total cost may exceed the “expensive” quote that included weekend installation.
Ask: “What day and time is this quote for?” If the installer says “weekday only,” add the weekend surcharge before comparing quotes.
Some installers offer flat-rate pricing regardless of day or time. These installers are rare but worth finding if you need weekend installation. Use the carpet cost calculator to estimate costs for different scheduling scenarios.
How to Compare Quotes Accurately
Follow this checklist when comparing quotes:
- Underlay type and thickness: Verify specs in writing. Don’t accept “underlay included” without details.
- Furniture moving: Confirm whether moving is included or extra.
- Subfloor prep: Ask if prep is included or charged separately.
- Old carpet removal: Verify whether removal and disposal are included.
- Transition strips: Check if they’re itemized in the quote.
- Installation day: Confirm whether the quote is for weekday or weekend installation.
- Warranty: Ask what warranty the installer provides on labor. Quality installers offer 1–3 year labor warranties. Budget installers offer none.
Add up the missing costs. If a cheap quote is $2,000 but doesn’t include underlay ($500), furniture moving ($200), subfloor prep ($300), or removal ($150), the real cost is $3,150. The “expensive” quote at $2,800 that includes everything is actually cheaper.
For transparent, itemized quotes, visit the contact page to request an estimate.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do some installers quote so much lower than others? They’re cutting costs by using cheap materials, skipping prep work, or excluding services like furniture moving and disposal.
Is the cheapest quote always bad? Not always. Some installers have lower overhead or are trying to fill their schedule. But verify what’s included before assuming it’s a good deal.
Should I ask for a breakdown of all costs? Yes. Request an itemized quote listing underlay, labor, materials, furniture moving, and extras. Compare line items, not just totals.
Can I negotiate a higher-quality underlay into a cheap quote? Yes. Ask for an upgrade quote. The installer will recalculate the price with better underlay. You’ll see exactly how much quality costs.
What if the installer finds subfloor damage on installation day? They should stop and give you a revised quote. If they charge you without warning, that’s poor business practice.
Do cheap installers use lower-quality carpet? Not necessarily. The carpet comes from the same suppliers. The difference is in underlay, labor quality, and included services.
How do I know if an installer is reputable? Check reviews, ask for references, and verify liability insurance. Reputable installers have a track record and stand behind their work.
Can I save money by doing some of the work myself? Yes. Removing old carpet, moving furniture, or prepping the subfloor yourself can save $200–$500. Ask if the installer will reduce the quote for DIY work.
What if I need carpet stretching later because the cheap installer didn’t do it right? You’ll pay for carpet stretching separately. That can cost $200–$600 depending on the size of the area.
Is it worth paying more for a quality installer? Yes. A quality installation lasts 10–15 years with minimal issues. A cheap installation fails within 2–5 years, requiring repairs or replacement.
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