Key Takeaways
- Single seam repair: $100–$200 for basic re-seaming
- Complex seam with seam tape replacement: $200–$300
- Multiple seams: $300–$600 depending on room size
- Peak seam leveling: $150–$250 per seam
- When repair works: Carpet edges intact, no fraying, proper subfloor
- When it fails: Frayed edges, water damage, worn backing, poor original installation
What You Pay to Fix a Carpet Seam
A basic seam repair costs $100 to $200. The installer pulls the carpet back, applies new seam tape, and re-irons the seam. This takes about an hour if the edges are clean.
If the seam has frayed or the edges need trimming, add $50 to $100. The installer cuts a fresh edge on both sides, then seams them back together. You lose half an inch of carpet width, but the seam holds better.
Peaked seams—where the seam sits higher than the surrounding carpet—cost $150 to $250 to fix. The installer has to lift the carpet, check the padding, and often replace compressed padding under the seam. This takes longer and requires more material.
Multiple seams in one room run $300 to $600. If your living room has three seams because it’s wider than standard carpet rolls, expect to pay for each one.
Some installers charge a minimum service call fee of $75 to $125. If you only need one small seam fixed, you’ll pay the minimum. If you need three seams repaired, the per-seam rate drops.
Seam repairs combined with carpet stretching usually cost $300 to $500 total. Many installers discount the combined service.
Why Carpet Seams Split or Peak
Most seam failures come from cheap installation. If the installer used cold seam tape instead of hot-melt tape, the adhesive dries out within a few years. The seam pulls apart.
Hot-melt tape requires a seaming iron heated to 300 degrees. The installer lays the tape between the carpet edges, presses the iron down, and the adhesive melts into the backing. This creates a permanent bond. Cold tape uses pressure-sensitive adhesive that peels over time.
Traffic is the second cause. People walk on seams more than they realize. Hallways, doorways, and room centers get the most foot traffic. The constant flexing loosens the adhesive.
Humidity causes seams to expand and contract. The carpet swells in summer, compressing the seam. In winter, it shrinks, pulling the seam apart. This is especially bad in basements.
Poor padding placement also causes peaks. If the padding seam sits directly under the carpet seam, you get a double-thick ridge. The carpet peaks up. Good installers offset the padding seam by at least six inches.
Vacuums with beater bars can catch seam edges and pull them loose. If the seam wasn’t sealed properly, the vacuum snags the edge and unravels it.
Water damage destroys seam tape. If the carpet got wet and sat for more than 48 hours, the adhesive dissolves. You’ll need both the seam repaired and the padding replaced.
How Seam Repair Actually Works
The installer starts by pulling the carpet back from the tack strips near the failed seam. They fold the carpet back to expose the seam tape underneath.
If the old tape is still sticky or has residue, they scrape it off. Clean backing is essential for the new tape to bond.
They trim the carpet edges if they’re frayed. A carpet knife with a fresh blade gives a clean, straight cut. Both edges need to match perfectly.
New hot-melt seam tape goes down between the edges. The installer heats the seaming iron to the manufacturer’s recommended temperature—usually 275 to 325 degrees.
They place the iron on the tape, wait for the adhesive to melt, then press the carpet edges into the melted glue. A seam roller presses the edges flat while the adhesive cools.
For peaked seams, the installer checks the padding. If it’s bunched up under the seam, they trim it or replace it with thinner padding. The goal is a level surface before re-seaming.
Once the adhesive cools—about five minutes—the carpet gets stretched back to the tack strips. The installer trims any excess and re-tacks it.
When Seam Repair Isn’t Worth It
If the carpet edges are shredded, repair is difficult. You can cut new edges, but you lose carpet width. In narrow hallways, this can make the carpet too short to reach the walls.
Cheap carpet with polypropylene backing doesn’t hold seam tape well. The backing is too thin. The seam may hold for a year, then fail again. At that point, carpet replacement is the better move.
Old carpet—fifteen years or older—has brittle backing. When the installer tries to iron new tape, the backing melts or crumbles. The seam won’t hold.
If the seam runs through a high-traffic area and has failed twice already, replacement is the answer. You’re fighting the inevitable.
Seams that have been glued with construction adhesive instead of seam tape are nearly impossible to repair. The glue soaks into the backing and can’t be removed. You’ll need new carpet.
Seam Placement and Why It Matters
Good installers plan seam placement during the estimate. Seams should run with the carpet pile direction, never across it. Cross-grain seams are always visible.
Seams should sit in low-traffic areas—along walls, under furniture, away from doorways. A seam in the middle of a hallway will fail fast.
Rooms wider than twelve feet require seams. Standard carpet rolls are twelve feet wide. If your living room is sixteen feet wide, you’ll have a seam. The installer should place it along a wall or under a sofa, not in the walking path.
L-shaped rooms always have seams at the corner. This is unavoidable. The installer joins two pieces at a right angle. These seams get more stress and fail more often.
Stairs never have seams in the middle of a tread. Seams go at the back of the tread or the base of the riser. If you see a seam in the center of a stair tread, the installer cut corners.
For more on stair-specific issues, check our guide to stair carpet installation.
Preventing Seam Failures After Repair
Once a seam is repaired, avoid vacuuming directly over it for at least 24 hours. The adhesive needs time to cure fully.
Use a vacuum without a beater bar near seams. The rotating brush can catch the edge and pull it loose. Suction-only settings work fine.
If you spill liquid near a seam, blot it immediately. Don’t let water sit on the seam. The adhesive can soften and the seam will separate.
Keep humidity levels stable. A dehumidifier in the basement prevents the carpet from swelling and shrinking. This is especially important if you’ve had seam failures before.
Don’t drag heavy furniture across seams. Lift and carry, or use furniture sliders. Dragging pulls the seam apart.
If the seam starts to lift again, call for repair immediately. A small separation is easy to fix. A fully split seam requires more work and costs more.
Finding a Seam Repair Specialist in Ottawa
Not all carpet installers do repair work. Some only install new carpet. Look for companies that advertise carpet repair specifically.
Ask if they use hot-melt seam tape and a seaming iron. If they mention cold tape or adhesive, walk away. Hot-melt is the only method that lasts.
Get a quote that includes the service call, labor, and materials. Some companies charge separately for each.
Ask if they’ll inspect the padding under the seam. If the padding is the problem, you want it fixed during the same visit.
Check reviews for mentions of seam work. Seaming requires skill. A bad seam is worse than no repair at all.
If the seam is in a visible area—middle of a room, hallway—ask to see photos of previous work. You want clean, invisible seams.
For professional seam repair in Ottawa, contact us for a free assessment. We serve Kanata, Barrhaven, Orleans, and all surrounding areas.
Seam Repair vs Full Room Replacement
If you have one failed seam in an otherwise good carpet, repair it. You’ll spend $150 instead of $1,500 for new carpet.
If you have three failed seams in one room, the installation was bad from the start. You’ll keep repairing seams every few years. Replacement makes more sense.
If the carpet is stained, worn, or outdated, don’t bother with seam repair. You’re throwing money at a carpet you’ll replace soon anyway.
If you’re selling the house, a visible seam failure looks terrible to buyers. A $200 repair is cheaper than a $500 price reduction.
Use the carpet cost calculator to compare repair costs against replacement for your specific situation.
FAQ
How much does it cost to repair a carpet seam in Ottawa? $100 to $200 for a basic seam re-tape. Complex seams with edge trimming or padding replacement cost $200 to $300.
Can I fix a carpet seam myself? Possible, but not recommended. Seaming irons cost $100 to $300, and the technique takes practice. A bad seam is worse than no repair.
How long does a repaired seam last? Five to ten years if done with hot-melt tape and proper technique. Longer if the seam is in a low-traffic area.
Why do carpet seams peak up? Usually because the padding seam sits directly under the carpet seam, creating a double-thick ridge. Poor stretching during installation also causes peaks.
Can you hide a carpet seam completely? No. Even the best seams are slightly visible in certain light. The goal is to make them as inconspicuous as possible by placing them in low-traffic areas and running them with the pile direction.
What’s the difference between hot-melt and cold seam tape? Hot-melt tape uses heat-activated adhesive that bonds permanently. Cold tape uses pressure-sensitive adhesive that dries out and fails within a few years.
How long does seam repair take? One to two hours for a single seam. Multiple seams or complex repairs take longer.
Will the repaired seam be visible? Slightly, yes. The seam will be less visible than a split or peaked seam, but it won’t disappear entirely.
Can water-damaged seams be repaired? Only if the backing is still intact. If the backing has delaminated or rotted, the carpet needs replacement.
Do carpet warranties cover seam failures? Sometimes. If the seam failed due to installation defects within the warranty period, the installer should repair it for free. Check your warranty terms.